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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:08 pm 
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Yeah I think moving the crash bars back, and maybe bending them up a little would help a lot. I just slow the bike then initiate the turn and like you control the arc with the throttle.

Does your front wheel move lock to lock without moving the servo?


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 Post subject: that reminds me
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:14 pm 
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that reminds me, i have a "real" toy in the garage that needs to be put back together..

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:20 pm 
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Nice RGV Hoki - is that a 250?

My steering wont go lock to lock without moving the servo - the connection has got long pieces of fuel line in between to act as a servo saver. I think the stock setup has got two springs instead but the previous owner prefered this setup?? This method is quite direct with little play, I was going to try the springs if I couldnt get this to work.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:23 pm 
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pen springs ??, yea its only a 250, just put new top end in it (taken 3/4 of a year.. to get parts from japan).. now it just sits while i play with my rc cars

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:26 pm 
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Pen springs would be about the right size - gonna take it out to Avalon this weekend (maybe Sunday) if anybody wants to come see some action.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 9:30 pm 
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I think that might be part of the problem, the front wheel won't be turning as far as it could so making your arc larger. That should also help keep the bike down in the turns a bit better.

Mine turns quite freely lock to lock without moving the servo at all, lets it follow its own line easier once its leaned over and you're off the steering.

That and the bars and you should be cookin :D

Edit: Pen springs are good, seen quite a few posts about using them on rcgroups :)


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:23 pm 
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Some stuff here.

http://www.nitrobike.co.uk/

Follow links from Nitro bike site as there is a lot of information available over here.

I haven't finished building yet, so have yet to learn the joys of driving. At least I have lots of experienced people to help here.

I am fitting the NF steering damper thingy
http://www.formbymodelshop.com/index.as ... oductid=21

As far as I can work out the steering needs to be really light ie. not too direct, the fuel tubing may be too firm. The damper thing which replaces the steering linkage has a set of firmer springs included, labelled for expert drivers only!!!

I hope to have my first test next week, I think the first set of bodywork will get the quick spray to get on the road, and I'll use my spare set for concours.

Cheers
Peter


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 12:46 am 
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I finally put my electronics in last night. Only glueing on tyres and bodywork and it will be good to go.

With the front wheel free it will turn both ways until it hits the stops (forks).
Holding the front wheel the servo has full movement ie. the damper/link has enough travel not to restrict the servo, even if the wheel is not able to move. See comment above about the steering not being to direct.


Of course I won't know until I try to drive it how/if it works.

Cheers
Peter


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 4:05 am 
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Try posting pic.

Peter


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:52 am 
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Nice, yeah i think I might swap the fuel tube for some springs.
Nice bike - are those forks oil filled or just the oil lubed ones?

I have been threatning to place an order with Formby - but when I look through his spares I want to buy every hop up part he has and then chicken out............. Same with 2wheelhobbies.com - they have a minimum freight to NZ of $30us so I start putting stuff in my cart to make the shipping worthwhile then I check the total and freak out :shock:

Its a shame you dont see much stuff on ebay for the NF bikes.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:16 am 
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Only the oil lubed forks, will get the oil damped USD forks in due course.

I have a mental problem with wanting hop ups even before I've run the bike, although it was the race kit with all the alloy (bling) bits included.

Cheers
Peter

ps. I really want to get lipo/brushless set up if I can learn to ride, soooooo fast.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:56 am 
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Pedro 51 wrote:
Only the oil lubed forks, will get the oil damped USD forks in due course.

I have a mental problem with wanting hop ups even before I've run the bike, although it was the race kit with all the alloy (bling) bits included.

Cheers
Peter

ps. I really want to get lipo/brushless set up if I can learn to ride, soooooo fast.
Yeah me too, every hopup part looks soo appealing. Pity CNR seem to be out of business, their stuff was so flash!

I'm definitely going brushless, i've got a 9x2 in there at the moment but getting it out for maintenance is a pain. Lipo looks nuts but will go there one day :D 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 12:25 pm 
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Yeah bugger about CNR - he had some cheap bits!!

Probably why he went out of business........ sounds like he pissed a few people off in the process. I almost spend my life savings with him and I was luck enough to be reading a rc bike forum and got a heads up before i clicked the button!!

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 3:09 pm 
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Ok, so Ive converted my steering setup to the two pen springs method and made the lower fork mod putting grub screws in the bottom to run the axle screws finger tight to stop the forks binding.
You can now move the front wheel quite a bit before the servo starts to turn.
Also moved the crashbars back and higher up and gained a bit more lean angle by putting spacers in the forks to raise the front a bit.

Now it just has to stop raining :evil:

I have only used this twice since ive had it with a total time of around 3/4 tanks of gas due to our great Wellington weather we have had....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:35 pm 
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Location: Auckland
Sounds good, should be much better now :)

Here's another tip i got about the crash bars from a guy on RC Groups.

Allan Waterfall wrote:
Lay the bike on its left hand side on a bench,turn the front wheel to the left.Make the crash bar length so that the fairing doesn't quite ground out by shortening it or bending it up.

You'll notice that if you now straighten the front wheel the fairing will lift and have a little more air under it,that's the normal running position at maximum lean.Do the same for the right hand side.

This was a set up tip from Dangerous Dez,editor of the RadioRaceCar magazine.

Allan


Thought it might help, will be doing this on my bike this week :)


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